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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.